This summer, with Foxlow restaurants firmly rooted in both Stoke Newington and Clerkenwell, Hawksmoor duo Will Beckett and Huw Gott expanded the meat empire to west London. The team bought Sam’s Brasserie in Chiswick and Harrison’s in Balham from owner Sam Harrison and gave the venues the Foxlow touch. Sad to see Sam’s Brasserie (and its delectable cocktail happy hour) leave Chiswick, I was eager to check out the new Foxlow establishment within its walls. Even with an ultra critical eye, I was wooed. So let’s start where it all ended, the cocktails…
You can tell that Foxlow care about cocktails. The menu isn’t extensive, and you won’t find a traditional cocktail selection, however it provides a carefully chosen list of short, long and frozen cocktails to pair with your food menu.
Take the Bleeding Heart, a rum-based, long soda cocktail; this drink offered a fruity and refreshing accompaniment to both the steak and the lighter ricotta dumpling and butternut squash meal. Plus, the raspberry shrub and rosemary garnish offered just enough of a savoury hint to complement the food.
Other tempting long cocktails include: Smokestack Mary, with gin, tomato, smoked paprika and chipotle, and Bay Bridge, with pisco, mint, green tea and frozen grapes. If you’re feeling a little James Bond, head for the short First Press Martini, with dry gin, olive manzanilla and honey water. And don’t miss the Bottomless Bloody Mary brunch drink, from 10am to 3pm on weekends.
Start with the Burrata
If you try any starter, pick the Burrata. A fantastic concoction of mozarella cheese and crème fraîche, served on top of sourdough bread with sorrel salsa verde. Although the salmon crudo with chilli and ginger is tempting second choice.
Fancy a Steak?
Take one glance at the range of steak options on the specials board and you’ll grasp that Foxlow knows a thing or two about steak. Priced by weight, ranging from sirloins to fillet steaks, there’s plenty to get your teeth into. On the regular menu, from the Dry-Aged Steak section I went for the D-Rump 55-Day steak (£18), which came with bone marrow and leaves. Sauces and fries are additional, and undecided on whether to take a gamble on the intriguing anchovy and chilli butter, our waiter kindly allowed me to try half and half: béarnaise sauce and anchovy butter. And I was not disappointed.
Vegetarians Don’t Despair!
Ok, so if you’re vegetarian, don’t worry, you’re not simply stuck with a plate of lettuce. As much as Foxlow focuses on meat, and they do it oh so well, they do have a few vegetarian options on the menu. There’s the Poblano Macaroni Cheese if you’re feeling like a home comfort (and there’s a side option too). The three salads on offer go from roasted carrots, avocado and green goddess to squash, purple kale and (the famous) burrata. Not forgetting the spicy beetroot, baby kale and Horseradish salad.
My fellow vegetarian diner opted for the Ricotta Dumplings, Girolles and Butternut Squash (£12.50) accompanied by the baby gem lettuce with Parmesan dressing. The dumplings were surprisingly light and paired with delicately seasoned butternut squash, this amounts to the perfect autumnal dish.
Room for Dessert?
Served in a tiny, elegant glass and sprinkled with three coffee beans, plus froth of perfection, Foxlow have mastered the Espresso Martini – the perfect end to a decadent meal. Who needs dessert? That’s not to say they don’t spoil you in that arena, too, with the likes of Black Forest Brownie, Passion Fruit Cheesecake and a selection of Neal’s Yard Cheeses on the menu.
On the website, the guys at Foxlow say: “When we opened Foxlow we just wanted to open the kind of restaurant we would like to live near.” Well, I do live near… and Foxlow, you’ve got it right.
Foxlow Chiswick | 11 Barley Mow Passage, Chiswick, London W4 4PH