Anchovies. Love them or hate them, you have to admit anything that says it comes with anchovy skeletons on the menu has to be a little intriguing, right?

Season Kitchen is an unassuming little British restaurant in Finsbury Park, north London, that changes its menu with the falling leaves, the daffodils and the chilly winter storms. Each season brings with it new produce, new recipes and most importantly new dishes for us to try.

Each week the menu changes, adapting to what’s fresh… as that’s when food tastes its best, surely more people would have cottoned onto this?

So back to the anchovies. I chose the starter because I’d never had a stonebaked anchovy and thought there was no time like the present (and yes, the anchovy skeletons were more than a little intriguing). It came with a side of spicy jelly compote, but quite honestly I mostly devoured these tiny fish all by themselves with a sprinkling of shaved salt and a squeeze of lemon. The skeletons left aside.

It turns out seafood was on the brain, as I tossed up whether to go for the mussels in cider vinegar and crinkled, chunky chips or the smoked haddock. The fish pipped it, I confess mainly due to the inclusion of tobacco leaves, what these were doing among the spinach, creamy mash and rarebit I was more than a little eager to discover. But the combination, beautifully presented in a tower-like structure, was comfort food at its best. While the spinach will make me strong.

With an ever-evolving menu, Season Kitchen will never become same-old, same-old. Alright you’ll not be able to return for your favourite dish week after week, but what they offer – a mix of British, French and Italian inspired dishes – will keep you on your toes.

And I like my food to give me a run for my money.

Season Kitchen | 53 Stroud Green Road, London N4 3EF


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